Our last destination in Jordan was Amman and we had only a day and a half to explore it. After spending an afternoon of revelation at Bethany Beyond the Jordan , we reached Amman late in the afternoon. Since our hotel was bang on in the city centre, just a minutes’ walk from the Roman Theatre, the Citadel, traditional markets, and all the action , we decided to explore these major attractions the next day and rather just chill in the evening, roaming about the streets, soaking in the local life and culture.
Downtown Amman
As soon as we stepped outside the centrally located Beirut Hotel in downtown Amman, we were blasted by the noise level of the evening bustle. It was such a contrast to the time we had spent the whole week throughout the rest of Jordan. Chatter, traffic, and the call to prayer echoing from nearby mosques— were all woven into the daily soundtrack. Not only the noise , stepping into the crowd was like stepping into a sea of people dashing about super busy with whatever they were doing.
Since it was nearing evening, the streets , all lit by neon signs and glowing with yellow tungsten street lamps , had become double lively with small shops offering treats. We were bombarded by the call of vendors offering fresh juice or roasted nuts from carts. The aroma of shawarma and falafel, sizzling at carts, with the rhythmic hiss of falafel hitting hot oil, assaulted our senses. The scent of grilled kebabs, cardamom tea, and freshly baked ka’ak (sesame bread) wafted from street vendors.
Locals mingling near markets ,gathered on plastic chairs outside small tea and shisha cafés and chatted over tea or shisha. The occasional oud player added melody to the urban sounds. Then there were the street cats – a common feature all around Jordan. Wherever we had gone there seemed to be more cats than people, weaving through legs and plastic stools and tables waiting for a treat to be thrown to them.
The street hummed with more of local families and students, and less of tourists, . Narrow alleyways opened onto souks where spices , fabrics and souvenirs spilled out, and the glow of storefronts blended with mosque lamps. We were totally enveloped by the city’s rhythm. Every walk offered something new around this central, lively stretch.
We found a restaurant serving authentic Jordanian cuisine and gorged over a dish of Ouzi- a pulao like aromatic rice dish which was served with pickles , yogurt and a local Cola. It wasn’t as good as Mansef or Maqloobah but satisfied our hunger. The next one hour was spent in shopping , specially authentic Jordanian curios.
Though we were in the middle of the ancient Roman amphitheater and Citadel , down here on the busy streets of Amman, we were engulfed by the street‑level reality : friendly, aromatic, colorful, and authentically Ammani.
The Citadel
Next day we had so much on our plate- the Citadel in the morning , then drive all the way to Jerash ,come back and visit the Roman Theatre and at last pack our bags and head to the airport to return home.
So the next morning, after enjoying a lavish breakfast along with the gorgeous street view from our hotel’s amazing terrace dining area, we headed towards the Citadel. The Citadel was a stone’s throw from our hotel and we reached there in no time.
Amman, the capital of Jordan, was originally built on seven hills—locally called jebels. These natural elevations formed the foundation of the city’s earliest settlements and helped shape its unique landscape. At the heart of Amman, perched atop one of the city’s original seven hills, lies the Citadel—locally called Jebel al-Qal’a.
Amman was once called ‘Rabbath Ammon,’ meaning the royal city of the ancient Ammonites, a people who lived here during the Iron Age. The Citadel’s roots go even deeper in time, reaching back to the Bronze Age. Around 1800 BCE, the hilltop was first fortified. Over the centuries, the site saw layers of change and renewal, as different civilizations—Iron Age settlers, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Umayyads—left their mark through rebuilding and new construction.
Scattered across its windswept plateau are the impressive ruins of a Roman temple, the weathered outlines of a Byzantine church, and the sturdy remains of an early Islamic Umayyad palace. Each structure whispers stories of a different era, making the Citadel a timeless mosaic of civilizations layered over centuries.
The Amman Citadel ,one of the most iconic and historically rich sites in Jordan, is a perfect place to start the day. Always visit it early in the morning when half of Amman is empty and noiseless. The entry fee is 3 JD which is free with the Jordan Pass. The opening hours in summer are from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM and in winter from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.(Closed during major holidays). It is a small place and can easily be covered in 45 mins to 1.5 hours, depending on your pace. It is less crowded than Petra or Jerash but rich in atmosphere and you get sweeping 360° views over Amman.
When we reached Amman Citadel it was totally empty and we had it all to ourselves. The structures ,dazzling white under the pristine morning sun added a peaceful quality to the place. Not as many structures as there are in Petra or Jerash still they felt endearing to me.
What to See at the Citadel
We explored the ruins swiftly, taking in each remarkable site without delay.
First we came to the Temple of Hercules. Built during the reign of Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius (161–180 AD), a giant hand and elbow are all that remain of what was once a massive statue of Hercules—estimated to be 12–15 meters tall. Huge fluted columns still stand there with dramatic city views.
The Umayyad Palace built in the early 8th century (Umayyad period)with a reconstructed entry domed chamber with its geometric wooden ceiling, gives you a sense of what early Islamic architecture looked like in Amman. Residential ruins and audience halls extend out from the palace.
Then there was the 6th-century Byzantine Church with remains of visible mosaic fragments and cross carvings on stones and columns.
The on-site Jordan Archaeological Museum is a small museum but was packed with artifacts from across Jordan’s major sites Including tools, statues, pottery from Neolithic times, and even some Dead Sea Scrolls.
The views of Amman from the top of the hill were absolutely stunning. Within an hour our tour was completed and we headed for Jerash. To know more about Jerash read my article- Jerash – a Step Back in Time .
The Roman Theatre
After a memorable visit to Jerash we returned to Amman to spend whatever time was left in the last leg of our long journey to Jordan. Leaving our car at the hotel we walked to the Roman Theatre.
The Roman Theater is one of the city’s most iconic and well-preserved ancient landmarks. Carved into the northern slope of a hillside in downtown Amman, this grand structure dates back to the 2nd century CE, during the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius. It could once seat around 6,000 spectators and was used for performances, public gatherings, and possibly even political events. Its clever design took advantage of the natural slope to amplify sound, allowing voices from the stage to reach the uppermost rows.
Today, the theater still hosts occasional cultural events and festivals, standing as a living reminder of Amman’s deep Roman roots. Just beside it, you’ll find the Jordan Folklore Museum and the Museum of Popular Traditions, adding further insight into the country’s rich heritage.
The area around the theatre was again as energetic as it was the previous evening but this very energy seemed to have spoiled the grandeur of the Roman Theatre turning into a kind of park for people to hang out. Maybe it was because of the time we had visited it. Maybe we should have gone there in the early morning like the Citadel.
All things come to an end and so did our trip to Jordan. Soon we packed our bags and headed for the airport bidding adieu with a heavy heart to the magnificent Jordan !
