The first evening in Wadi Rum was otherworldly. The Hejaz Railway experience, the ride into the desert, the mesmerizing sunset, the mingling and meals with the Bedouins , the brilliant stargazing – every thing had raised our expectations for the next day which was the day we did the four hour jeep tour inside the desert. We just kept our finger’s crossed that the weather wouldn’t betray us and the sun would shine mercifully on us .
Sunrise in Wadi Rum
Next morning we woke up to a feast for the eyes. Peeping out of our tent window we weren’t able to see any sunrise. On a clear day guests from the tent we stayed in, get the chance to witness a beautiful sunrise . But we weren’t so lucky because the skies were overcast with clouds ,though thankfully not dark ominous ones.
Stepping outside I was hit by sudden cold winds chilling me to the bones. I mean it was extremely cold and there was no air conditioner or room heater in our tent but I think it was the magic of the Bedouin tents that had comforted us from the cold all through the night. But outside, the story was different. Not that it bothered me much ,rather it matched with the outside world we were witnessing.
The previous evening we had explored the backside of the camp where the landscape was a quaint mix of lunar and Martian, but in the morning we went out to climb a sand dune moulded from endless stretches of vermillion coloured sand amidst tall mountains in the horizons. The beauty was indescribable – a Martian landscape but maybe more beautiful than Mars !
Not a single person was visible in miles to come. And out of nowhere this solitary dog rushed towards us frolicking in the sand -our sole companion. This doggie ,probably a golden retriever, judging from the color of its fur, looked more leonine than canine. Running to and fro, our furry friend amalgamated into the landscape becoming one with it. As mysteriously as it had come, it sprinted back to nowhere, leaving us alone again in the vast desert.
Bedouin culture
In the morning we enjoyed a satisfying breakfast with the Bedouins . It was time to say goodbye to our camp and head deeper into the desert and discover what it had to offer us. Our jeep arrived on time to take us out for the safari. Riding on an open jeep we saw behind us our camp become tinier and tinier and then vanish into the horizon. We had to strain our necks to get the last glimpse of our camp now turning into a speck of dust.
We had got the opportunity to live the Bedouin life, albeit for a few hours. This was thanks to the real soul of Wadi Rum -the Zalabieh Bedouins-our hosts- who have lived here for generations and are stewards of the land. Many families have adapted to tourism, running jeep tours, camel treks, and desert camps. But their connection to the land remains deep. They’ll tell you about ancient routes, show you petroglyphs carved by the Thamudic people-an ancient tribe of pre-Arabic Jordan– and share sweet black tea brewed over open fires. There’s something deeply human about gathering under the stars, listening to your Bedouin guide sing old songs in Arabic, and realizing that your camp isn’t a hotel but a home for them.
Soon new wonders started to pop up in front of us. Wadi Rum known for its cinematic landscapes, has been filming locations for many movies like The Martian, Dune, Star Wars, and Lawrence of Arabia.
Ways to explore and things to see in Wadi Rum
Jeep Tours are the most popular way to explore Wadi Rum — and for good reason. The protected area spans nearly 720 square kilometers, and jeep tours take you to the best sites, from ancient petroglyphs to sand dunes to narrow canyons.
Most tours include:
Khazali Canyon – A narrow gorge filled with ancient inscriptions and cool shade.
Red Sand Dunes – Perfect for climbing and sliding down.
Natural Bridges – Including Um Fruth and Burdah, where rock has formed perfect arches.
Tours can last from 2 hours ,4 hours to full-day excursions and are often bundled with overnight stays like ours.
The other ways to experience Wadi Rum are by rock climbing , hiking and camel trekking. In all cases taking help of a guide is essential and does involve more than a night’s stay in Wadi Rum.
Besides stunning desert landscape, Wadi Rum also boasts of astounding cultural landscape. 25,000 petroglyphs (rock carvings), 20,000 inscriptions, and 154 archaeological sites have been discovered within this place, tracing the evolution of human thought and the early development of the alphabet.
In addition to the desert’s beauty, Wadi Rum is also a site of spiritual significance with various Christian references. For example, it is believed to be the place where prophet Moses passed through when he crossed the country from the Red Sea in the south to the northern region.
How Wadi Rum was formed
Wadi Rum Protected Area is known for its stunning desert landscapes, shaped over millions of years of wind, sand, and tectonic drama. The result? A vast desert plateau broken by massive granite and sandstone mountains — some over 1700 meters high — cut by canyons, natural arches, and mushroom-like rock formations.
These landforms were created by a mix of natural forces — the type of rocks in the area, movements in the Earth’s crust (like uplift, faults, and cracks), and weathering and erosion caused by both dry desert conditions and wetter climates in the past. Together, these elements have formed the dramatic scenery visitors see today.
Riding on the jeep ,the 360 degree views we were witnessing was indescribable!
Chicken Rock
Our first stop was Chicken Rock.
The road from our camp to Chicken Rock , bumpy but exciting, was over a rugged track across open desert and red sand . But that was not all. The scenery constantly shifted — from flat stretches of glowing sand to narrow paths winding between stone outcrops. Our jeep bounced gently over low dunes and cut across wide open plains. Along the way, we passed towering sandstone mountains, weathered rock formations, and occasional patches of desert shrubs. It was a true off-road adventure!
As we approached Chicken Rock, we didn’t spot it immediately. It blended so naturally into the surroundings that it was hard to identify it. But the jeep was soon close enough for its comical shape — resembling a chicken crouched in the sand — to come into view. The rock’s shape mimicked the rounded body, neck, and even beak of a chicken, especially when viewed from a certain angle — giving it its playful nickname. Who would think that this cartoonish rock was sculpted over millions of years by wind erosion, where stronger gusts gradually wore away the weaker parts of the rock, leaving behind this unusual shape.
The area around Chicken Rock was quiet and peaceful, with few crowds, giving us a chance to enjoy the whimsical rock and the sweeping desert scenery in solitude. We climbed a sand dune adjacent to it to get a better perspective of the rock and its surroundings. Its uncanny resemblance to a cartoonish chicken made it look ludicrous even from the top of the majestic dune amidst all that stark desert landscape. At least it was a fun photo stop .
Um Fruth Rock Bridge
After enjoying Chicken Rock for a while we headed towards our next destination – Um Fruth Rock Bridge. The road took us deeper into the heart of Wadi Rum’s dramatic desert landscape over a sandy desert track, a slightly uneven route through open plains of reddish-orange sand, with the occasional clusters of desert shrubs – impossible to navigate without experienced Bedouin guides on 4×4 vehicles. The ride took about 20 minutes. The sand was soft in places due to rains, so the jeep had to slow down or swerve to avoid getting stuck. Tyre tracks from previous vehicles often marked the path, snaking through the sand like faded trails.
Approaching Um Fruth Rock Bridge, the iconic arch started to come into view, perched like a natural sculpture on the side of a sandstone formation. The jeep pulled up at the base of the bridge, where visitors can climb up or admire it from below. The contrast between the soft red sands and the rugged stone arch made this stretch of the journey especially scenic turning out to be one of the most photogenic parts of Wadi Rum.
Um Fruth Rock Bridge (often just called Fruth Bridge) is one of Wadi Rum’s most iconic natural landmarks — a stunning sandstone arch that stands proudly against the vast desert backdrop. It’s relatively small compared to other arches around the world, but its dramatic setting and accessible height make it a favorite among visitors.
The bridge is about 15 meters high and was formed over millions of years by wind and water erosion. As wind funneled through a crack in the rock face, it slowly widened the gap and hollowed out the sandstone, eventually leaving a narrow span that now forms the bridge. The rock here is layered, cross-bedded sandstone, which helps explain its sculpted curves and textures.
When we had reached Fruth Bridge it was bright and sunny, and compared to the bright red hues of the desert this area was golden yellow in colour. We took a few photos ,it being such a grand place for photo shoots. Then we walked to the other side of the bridge which was more dramatic in nature. The true grandeur of the bridge could be sensed from here. Though much sunlight didn’t reach here it looked all the more beautiful because of the sun creating a silhouette from the back .
Fruth Bridge seemed climbable from below .We saw many visitors scramble up the side to stand on top of the arch for photos. The climb looked short but steep and slippery, so I found it best to avoid. But I guess once you’re brave enough to be at the top and daring enough to stand on its narrow spine, you would be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding red dunes and jagged cliffs. For me ,since I had vertigo ,climbing up was too scary. I just kept on looking up craning my neck to the full and enjoying the silhouette of the sun peeping through the cracks.
Lawrence’s House
From Fruth Bridge our guide took us next to the famous Lawrence’s House .
Thomas Edward Lawrence was a British Army officer, archaeologist, diplomat and writer known for his role during the Arab Revolt and Sinai and Palestine campaign against the Ottoman Empire in the First World War, who would become immortalized as Lawrence of Arabia.
But people know him better from David Lean‘s famous movie ‘Lawrence of Arabia ‘ starring Peter O’Toole. His name has become deeply linked with the landscapes of Wadi Rum due to his time spent there and the romanticized legacy that followed.
Lawrence of Arabia, sent to the Middle East as a British liaison officer, had passed through these silent valleys, helping Arab tribes rise against Ottoman rule. He combined military expertise with a deep understanding of Arab culture, tribal dynamics, and desert warfare. Fluent in Arabic and immersed in Bedouin life, Lawrence joined forces with Sharif Hussein of Mecca and his sons, particularly Prince Faisal, to aid Arab tribes in their struggle for independence from the Ottoman Turks. Using the desert’s vastness to wage a bold guerrilla campaign, he advocated for and helped lead guerrilla tactics, such as train raids, sabotage missions, and swift desert strikes, which were highly effective. Wadi Rum, with its towering rock faces, remote canyons, red sand valleys, natural fortresses and hidden springs offered refuge and strategic advantage. It served as a base and transit route for many of the Arab forces during the revolt.
Lawrence had passed through and operated in Wadi Rum multiple times, and he wrote about its beauty and significance in his memoir, ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom‘. As you can guess, the marvelous mountain viewed from the Visitor Centre was named after this very memoir. Nature and Man paying homage to each other.
The jeep rolled back down the gentle slope of sand and began heading east or southeast across a relatively flat plain. The sand again shifted from golden tones to deep red, and the towering sandstone cliffs slowly gave way to more open vistas, dotted with isolated ,unnamed but no less stunning rock formations. The ride here was smoother.
We soon approached a long sandstone ridge where Lawrence’s House lies — a low set of stone ruins built into the rock, traditionally believed to be one of T.E. Lawrence’s temporary resting places during the Arab Revolt. Lawrence’s House isn’t an elaborate structure — just the remnants of Nabataean stone foundations beneath a natural rock shelter — but the location is beautiful and quiet, offering panoramic views over the surrounding desert. The stop is more about atmosphere and history than architecture. Not much to see but the idea of someone as eminent as Lawrence of Arabia once hiding in this place was actually goose-bump inducing!
Other places associated with T.E. Lawrence are Lawrence’s Spring –a small water source nestled under a cliff, supposedly where Lawrence once camped and the Hejaz Railway which we had experienced the previous day. for more about The Hejaz Railway read my post ‘Wadi Rum : A Landscape Shaped by Time Part 1‘
There was a small souvenir cum tea shop next to the ruins . After roaming around the ruins and taking in the all-encompassing views, we stepped into the shop .While Samit sat with the local Bedouin shop owner and our guide for a little chat ,I busied myself surveying the knickknacks – mostly local and handmade- being sold there. The items there were far cheaper than what were sold at other places -proof of the simplicity of the Bedouins who would care less for money.
The Little Bridge
Just past Lawrence’s House on the typical Wadi Rum circuit, we came across our next destination- the Little Bridge—also called the Small Rock Bridge. Our jeep took us behind the rock which was an easy climb to the top. The Little Bridge was a charming, modest natural arch, much smaller than the famous Um Fruth Bridge. Crowds were lighter, and the climb was easier—a few minutes of scrambling brought us up for a sweeping photo vantage over the Khor al‑Ajram valley. To be truthful Samit had climbed to the top and I had climbed halfway but the views from there were equally panoramic and gorgeous. And the rocks and sand were far more vermillion in colour than it was at the Fruth Bridge.
There was another Bedouin tent at the bottom of the bridge offering tea being made on an open fire. We made friends with the local Bedouin as well as some Japanese tourists sharing tidbits of our Jordan trip with each other .It was nice to have company to discuss our mutual love for the country.
Khazali Canyon
After rejuvenating ourselves with sweet Arabic tea we hit the road again ,this time to Khazali Canyon. The landscape here felt spacious, with distant cliffs and mesas creating a dramatic horizon. The canyon was clearly visible because of its tall sandstone walls, with layered rock faces rising steeply on either side. The drive ended at a small parking area just outside the canyon, where we stepped out to explore the cool, shadowed gorge with its ancient petroglyphs and inscriptions. This stretch felt like a transition from open desert wilderness to a more intimate, mysterious space .The sky was already getting dark because of the impending rains and we ad to take the decision of whether to enter into the canyon or not .
Khazali Canyon is a narrow, dramatic crack in the sandstone cliffs of Wadi Rum. Though only about 100 meters long and just a few meters wide, in this slot canyon. the towering walls close in, creating a cool, shaded corridor carved by centuries of flash floods and erosions . The walls are smooth and rounded, shaped by water flowing through the rock during wetter climatic periods long ago. The canyon’s sandstone displays beautiful striations and layers, revealing millions of years of desert formation. It resembled Petra’s Siq in many ways. Read my post ‘Petra -a City as old as Time Part II’ to know more about the Siq.
What makes Khazali Canyon especially unique is the presence of ancient petroglyphs and inscriptions etched into the rock walls. These include Nabataean, Thamudic, and early Islamic script, alongside carvings of animals, humans, and footprints. They are believed to be thousands of years old, marking the canyon as a sacred or resting place for travelers and traders on desert routes.
You can walk a short distance into the canyon — it doesn’t go very deep — but it feels like stepping into another world. The play of light and shadow inside is beautiful, especially in the early morning or late afternoon.
Red Sand Dune
Because of the weather which causes sudden flash floods inside the canyon, our guide suggested rather we climb the Red Sand Dune which was visible from the Khazali Canyon. The track to the dune wasn’t a smooth path but more of a series of tyre marks winding through the sand, so the jeep bounced and swayed as it made its way forward. The towering sandstone cliffs gave way to the vast expanse of the Red Sand Dune rising ahead like a glowing wave of deep crimson sand. The vibrant dune stood out sharply against the rugged stone formations nearby. We soon approached the base, close enough for us to hop out and begin the climb up the dune’s soft, warm sand. And what an exhilarating climb it was!
The Red Sand Dune in Wadi Rum is one of the most striking and accessible natural features in the desert — a massive slope of fine, rust-colored sand set against a backdrop of towering sandstone cliffs. Its vivid color comes from iron oxide in the sand, giving it a deep red hue that glows brilliantly under the desert sun, especially at sunrise and sunset.
This dune, often simply referred to as ‘Al Ramal al Ahmar‘ (Arabic for ‘The Red Sand’), lies at the base of a rock formation, where wind has steadily gathered loose sand over time. Unlike the endless rolling dunes of some deserts, this one appears suddenly and dramatically, like a wave frozen mid-surge against the stone.
Climbing the Red Sand Dune in Wadi Rum was an exhilarating experience but at the same time quite an endeavour. Each step up the soft, shifting sand demanded effort—our feet sinking slightly with every movement, making the ascent both strenuous and slow, making each step feel like two. We paused at intervals, catching our breaths, hearts pounding, as the golden sun cast long shadows across the vast desert. For the first time in Jordan I actually took off my jacket because I was sweating so profusely. But the reward was worth every drop of sweat.
From the top, the view was breathtaking—sweeping panoramic vistas of Wadi Rum’s surreal landscape stretched endlessly in every direction, with rugged sandstone mountains and wide, open valleys bathed in hues of orange ,rust and red. It felt like standing on the edge of another world. The stunning contrast between the glowing dune, dark rock formations, and the wide open desert stretching beyond was indescribable! Later Samit had calculated that the Red Sand Dune is almost the height of an 11 storied building !! Quite a feat for us !!
Back to Wadi Rum Village
After the Fruth Bridge the Red Sand Dune was my second favourite place inside Wadi Rum ( of course besides our camp!).
Evening was approaching and we had to reach Petra before it got too dark to see the roads. Leaving the vibrant red, vast , timeless dunes behind, the jeep moved across . As we neared Wadi Rum Village, the terrain became a bit more level, and we spotted the cluster of buildings and camps marking the village — a welcoming sign of civilization after hours in the wild desert. This final stretch offered a peaceful end to our desert adventure, letting us soak in the quiet beauty of Wadi Rum one last time before heading out to our next destination, another marvel of Jordan –Petra.
Practical Tips for Visiting Wadi Rum
- Book a tour or camp in advance — especially in peak season.
- Bring layers — desert nights can be chilly even in summer.
- No ATMs inside the protected area — bring cash.
- Don’t rely on phone signal — tell someone your plans ahead of time. Most camps also don’t have WIFI.
- Respect the desert — it’s fragile and sacred to the Bedouin.
