It was a long drive from the Red Sea to the Dead Sea-in fact the longest on our trip. For those who don’t know Dead Sea is a saltwater lake 1410 feet below sea level, but coming to that soon.The road from Aqaba to the Dead Sea is one of the most scenic and diverse drives in Jordan, traversing dramatic desert landscapes, Wadi Araba, the Rift Valley and eventually reaching the lowest point on Earth. The distance from Aqaba to the Dead Sea is about 240 kms and the driving time is about 3.5 to 4.5 hours without stops. The route we took was via Wadi Araba Highway (Highway 65).
Wadi Araba
It was a beautiful morning when we started from Aqaba on the Red Sea. After leaving the city’s lively commotion we hit the vast desert road passing through Wadi Araba. The scenario here was a stark contrast to what we had seen while entering Aqaba, so different also from what we had seen in Wadi Rum or Petra. Once you’re on Highway 65, the landscape of Wadi Araba becomes austere and beautiful, a place of vastness and haunting silence-an enormous plain broken only by low sandstone ridges, wandering camels and the occasional Bedouin tent pitched under the sky.
Our Jordan Travelogue
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After Mount Nebo our next destination was Madaba. Madaba, known as the ‘City of Mosaics’…
On this road we actually felt the relentlessness of a true desert. The heat shimmered off the asphalt like waves. The road felt endless — straight, wide, and stretching into infinity. The earth here, instead of being the ochre, burnt orange and dusty pink palette of Wadi Rum and Petra, was a palette of bleak and bland grey and yellow , reflecting the intensity of the sun overhead. There were few signs of civilization, but every now and then, we passed a solitary acacia tree, a clump of bushes , a herd of goats or a local child waving from a distant cluster of homes. The only break we took was at a small store we found next to a petrol pump in the middle of nowhere.
The Rift Valley
As we drove further north, subtle changes began to appear. The terrain became more textured. In the far distance to our right we could see the edging cliffs of highlands rise up. To our left , across the invisible border with Israel, lied the Negev Desert. Google said we were traveling through the Great Rift Valley, one of the oldest geological features on earth. Around 2–3 hours into our drive, we could see a placard indicating a detour eastward toward the Dana Biosphere Reserve ,another natural wonder of Jordan. Road signs sometimes pointed to long-abandoned mines, Roman wells and archaeological sites but we were short on time and had to skip all of that.
After what seemed an eternity we finally saw green -an indication that we had entered into Dead Sea territory. The road began a slow but steady descent. We were heading toward the Dead Sea Depression, the lowest point on Earth at 1,410 feet below sea level. Just when the desert began to feel infinite, something unexpected appeared on the horizon: patches of green. Long, flat stretches of farmland suddenly broke the barren landscape — a vivid contrast of lush crops against a backdrop of tawny dunes and rocky plateaus.
These farms are part of Jordan’s agricultural heartland, made possible by irrigation from deep groundwater reserves and, in some areas, innovative water reuse projects. We could see date and palm groves – their fronds catching the desert breeze like sails- rows of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, and peppers, often shielded under white plastic greenhouses that shimmered in the heat. At places irrigation sprinklers gently misted the air, creating short-lived rainbows above the sand. Occasional workers in wide hats or headscarves, tended to rows of produce or sold them a trunkful under the burning sun.
Museum of the Lowest Point on Earth
Once we had entered the Dead Sea region we decided to take a short detour. We saw one attraction which seemed interesting -the Museum of the Lowest Point on Earth. We were the only visitors there. A comparatively new structure initiated by Greek archaeologist Dr. Konstantinos Politis in collaboration with the Jordanian Department of Antiquitie , the building design is inspired by fossilized ammonite shells found in the region, crafted by Jordanian architect George Hakim.
After chatting for a long time with the wonderful employees at the reception we entered the tiny museum – basically a huge hall containing 90% of the artifacts displayed.
The museum’s collection encompasses artifacts spanning from the Neolithic period to the Islamic era, including 5,000-year-old Bronze Age ceramics, Greco-Roman textiles from Khirbat Qayzun ,Christian tombstones from the ancient city of Zoara, a complete mosaic pavement from the Sanctuary of St. Lot (Lot’s Cave is also nearby) and artifacts related to medieval sugar production in the region.
The museum also houses a restoration laboratory focusing on mosaics and displays handicrafts from local Jordanian communities. It took us hardly 20 – 25 minutes to complete everything and we then headed towards our resort the Wadi Mujib Chalets.
Arriving at the Dead Sea
Again, the terrain started to transform dramatically. The arid flatness gave way to salt-scarred earth and gleaming salt crystals lined the roadside. We could even see the glint of water on the horizon, although the actual shoreline was still some kilometers ahead. The air started to become thicker as if mineral-laden. The Dead Sea appeared at last, still and unbroken, like a giant mirror, its turquoise surface contrasting with the white salt crusts and grey barren cliffs that hem it in . We had to stop for the first glimpse of the Dead Sea which was absolutely surreal.
Now a little bit about the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is a landlocked salt water lake between Israel and Jordan. It receives nearly all its water from the Jordan river which flows from the north into the lake. The water is dense and ten times saltier than sea water — it lifts your body as if gravity forgot you. Your skin tingles from the salt. The silence here is absolute, broken only by the occasional ripple or the calls of distant birds.
Due to its extreme salinity, the Dead Sea cannot support aquatic life beyond resilient bacteria. Any fish swept in from the Jordan River or seasonal floods perish almost immediately. Vegetation is scarce along the shores, limited mostly to salt-tolerant species like halophytes that cling to the alkaline soil.
Dead Sea’s Water
The water in the Dead Sea is continuously dropping. In the mid-20th century, its surface was about 1,300 feet below sea level. By the mid-2010s, the surface had dropped over 100 feet to around 1,410 feet below sea level and continued falling about 3 feet each year. On top of that salt concentration is increasing at the bottom. The Dead Sea’s water is so salty that it naturally separates into two layers. Deep below the surface lies a heavy, mineral-rich layer packed with elements like magnesium, potassium, and bromine, along with traces of hydrogen sulfide. It’s so dense and saturated with salt that it forms solid deposits and stays locked at the bottom—like fossilized water preserved in time.
If you come in April, floating in the warm, mineral-rich waters of the Dead Sea feels like stepping into nature’s own spa. The water’s natural buoyancy, combined with a higher level of oxygen and therapeutic black mud, offers a sense of relaxation you can feel in your bones. Even the air feels different—thick with minerals, yet somehow easier to breathe. With the dry desert climate and virtually no pollen, it’s a haven for both body and soul. The mud here is legendary, said to soothe everything from skin conditions to joint pain. But more than the health perks, there’s something almost sacred about the whole experience—a chance to reset, both physically and mentally.
Al Mujib Chalets @ Dead Sea
We had deliberately chosen Mujib Chalets instead one of the glitzy resorts further north. We had gone in winter when there was little chance of swimming or floating in the water so we opted for a resort which was more remote and had a local feel to it .This was such a good decision on our part! The place felt like a reward. Perched on a remote cliffside, hugging the edge of the Dead Sea, this eco-lodge is one of Jordan’s best-kept secrets. A string of rustic cabins hugging the shore, each with its own panoramic view of the sea. In the distance we could see a huge reserve of date trees lining the cliff’s edge. There was pin drop silence all around us-not even the splashing of the waves ,the call of birds could be heard or any other kind of distractions could be felt.
The Beach
Wanting to make most of the day we headed towards the beach. It was extremely cold and windy -the weather not at all suitable for swimming. And the path was a steep and rocky incline which was all the more scary because of the strong winds. But the view in front of us was spectacular!
The cliffs layered with multi-coloured pebbles dropped dramatically into the brilliant, glassy, blue water of the sea. Across the water, the hazy outline of Israel’s hills rose like a mirage, adding to the surreal beauty of the scene .
After struggling with the wind we finally reached the narrow, pebbled beach. Though the water looked calm and still from a distance it was actually deceptively treacherous with strong tides knocking you down. We noticed strange rock formations and natural sculptures —sharp-edged salt deposits built up like coral, sculpted by wind and water over millennia. The shoreline felt beautiful but lunar.
To enjoy floating in the Dead Sea it is always better to come during the spring months of March and April. After spending some time at the beach we returned to the top to enjoy a magnificent sunset . It felt like we were at the end of the world.
The White Crystals Beach
The next day was also marvelous. We were greeted by a gorgeous view of the Dead Sea from our bed. We also made friends with a few local families enjoying a staycation there. It was with a heavy heart that we had to say goodbye to this place where we wanted to stay a few more days.
Before leaving we visited the nearby White Crystals Beach 5 minutes from our resort. We didn’t have time to go to the shore of the beach which would have taken almost an hour to and from, but from the top of the cliff I was struck by the surreal beauty of the white crystal formations that lined the beach. Not sand, but salt—hard, jagged, and glistening in the sunlight like shards of ice. With the turquoise water lapping gently against the brilliant white crust, it formed a shoreline unlike any other. Even from afar it felt like I was experiencing life on another planet.
Those who visit the Dead Sea shouldn’t miss the marvel of nature. Also if you have time don’t forget to visit the Wadi Mujib Reserve-around an hour’s drive from the Dead Sea.
Our next destination –Amman.
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