Madaba – A love story of Mosaics

After Mount Nebo our next destination was Madaba. Madaba, known as the ‘City of Mosaics‘ , is famous for its Byzantine and Umayyad-era mosaics, ancient churches, and historical landmarks. Madaba is only a 20 minute drive from Queen Alia International Airport.

Top Attractions of Madaba

The main attractions of Madaba are St. George’s Greek Orthodox Church and the Madaba Map located inside it, Madaba Archaeological Parks 1 and 2, Church of the Apostles, St. John the Baptist Church and Madaba Arts and Handicraft Center .

From Mount Nebo we reached Madaba in about 15 minutes. Our hotel was very near to St. George’s Church, so after freshening up and having a late lunch at the famous Ayola Cafe, we went out to see the Church. The lunch we had was a dish called Fukharet Chicken which was simply out-of-this-world !

St. George’s Church, Madaba

St. George’s Church is a 19th century Greek Orthodox Church in Madaba famous for housing the Madaba Map, the oldest known cartographic representation of Jerusalem and other biblical sites. The new church was built in 1896 over the ruins of a 6th-century Byzantine church which was found by the builders while excavating the construction site. The modern day church is built in traditional Greek orthodox designs, with stone walls, arched windows, and a modest bell tower. The interior is adorned with religious icons and frescoes, reflecting Orthodox Christian artistry. But amidst all this what stands out is the historically significant Madaba Map spread out on the middle of the church floor.

When we had visited, the church was under renovation, so we missed out on the beautiful interiors, pictures of which we had seen on the internet. There were mostly scaffolds everywhere with just two small shrines of Jesus and Mother Mary near the entrance , but the distinct Madaba map was carefully protected and visible in the middle. It was so interesting to see such an iconic piece of history in front of us.

The Madaba Map -its key features and historical and religious significance

The map was created in the late 6th century AD and made of 2 million decorated stones called tesserae. All the landscapes are labelled in Greek. It is the oldest surviving map of the Holy Land, offering a detailed representation of biblical sites. The map originally measured 25 x 5 meters, though only fragments remain today.

There are many notable depictions in the map. The most detailed part is of Jerusalem, showing the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the city walls, gates, and streets. Then it shows Bethlehem, Jericho, and the Jordan River – important biblical locations clearly marked. Dead Sea is shown with boats and fish, emphasizing its significance. The mention of the Nile River and Egypt indicate broader regional connections.

Historically it has immense importance because it provides insight into Byzantine-era geography and early Christian pilgrimage routes. It also helped scholars reconstruct ancient Jerusalem before its destruction in 614 AD and Jordan‘s significance as an ancient biblical country.

Just outside the church is a clear, large- sized picture of the Madaba map for better understanding. In front of it is a small shop which doubles up as an interpretative centre with various displays related to the map as well as the church.

Madaba Archaeological Park

A short walk from St. George’s Church is the Madaba Archaeological Park 1. Crossing the ancient bazaar, we reached there within minutes. Since signs are put up at frequent intervals it was very easy to navigate from one place to another.

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The Madaba Archaeological Park 1 is an open-air museum in Madaba, Jordan, showcasing ancient ruins, mosaics, and artifacts from the Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic periods. Main attractions inside the Park are the Church of the Virgin Mary, the Hippolytus Hall, a Roman Street (Cardo Maximus), and the Burnt Palace.

The Church of the Virgin Mary discovered beneath modern Madaba, is a Byzantine church built over a Roman-era structure. It features an intricate mosaic floor, with geometric patterns, floral motifs, and inscriptions. The Greek inscription found here dedicates the church to the Virgin Mary, making it an important early Christian pilgrimage site. It demonstrates how Christian communities in Byzantine Jordan integrated their faith with existing Roman infrastructure.

The Hippolytus Hall was once part of a wealthy Byzantine mansion, showcasing the luxurious lifestyle of Madaba’s elite. It was named after a mosaic depicting the Greek myth of Hippolytus, the son of Theseus, highlighting the influence of classical mythology in Byzantine art. The mosaic also includes hunting scenes, animals, and decorative patterns, reflecting the period’s artistic excellence. Non-religious themes in the mosaics indicate that Byzantine Madaba had a blend of Christian and classical Greek and Roman cultural influences.

The Roman Street or Cardo Maximus is a preserved section of Madaba’s Roman-era main street, originally lined with shops, markets, and public buildings. Built using large stone slabs, with visible signs of wear from carts and pedestrians over centuries. Flanked by columns, following the typical Roman city plan of a central north-south street ,provides insight into Madaba’s urban planning under Roman rule, before it became a Christian center in the Byzantine period.

The Burnt Palace is the remains of a grand Byzantine residence, possibly destroyed by fire during Persian invasions or later conflicts. It features well-preserved floor mosaics, including detailed depictions of birds, animals, and nature scenes. The presence of luxurious decorations suggests it belonged to a wealthy family or a high-ranking official. It offers a glimpse into daily life in Byzantine Madaba, including its art, architecture, and domestic spaces.

John the Baptist Church

After visiting the Archeological Park we walked a little uphill then a little downhill to reach the Church of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist

Church of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist ,also known as Sanctuary of St. John the Baptist, is a Catholic church in Madaba, Jordan, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, who was supposedly beheaded nearby. It is notable for its underground archaeological site and panoramic views of the city.

The church was built in the 20th century in a traditional Roman Catholic style, with stone walls, arched ceilings, and a prominent bell tower. It houses religious frescoes, icons, and a central altar dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The Bell Tower offers stunning 360-degree views of Madaba and the surrounding region.

It is also well-known for its underground Acropolis and caves. Below the church lies a network of ancient caves, tunnels, and cisterns, believed to date back to Moabite, Roman, and Byzantine times. There is an ancient cistern called Herod’s Well, traditionally linked to John the Baptist. There are Byzantine-era water reservoirs and passageways used for storing water, and stone carvings and archaeological remains from different historical periods.

The church’s significance lies in it being a pilgrimage site honoring John the Baptist, who is highly revered in both Christianity and Islam. It also reflects Madaba’s rich past, from its Moabite origins (9th century BC) to the Byzantine Christian era (4th–7th century AD) and provides insight into Roman and Byzantine water management systems.

Other Places of Interest in Madaba

Other places of interest in Madaba are Archeological Park 2 , the Church of the Apostles and the Madaba Arts and Handicraft Center. Due to lack of time and being extremely tired from an all night journey as well as closing time nearing for these places, we had to skip these sites but I’ll give a brief description of all of them.

The Church of the Apostles is a 6th-century Byzantine church known for its stunning mosaic floor featuring Thalassa, the Sea Goddess, a personification of the sea, depicted with flowing hair, holding a veil filled with sea creatures wearing a pearl necklace, and surrounded by fish.

The Madaba Arts and Handicraft Center is a cultural and artistic hub dedicated to preserving and showcasing traditional Jordanian crafts, especially the city’s famous mosaic art. It serves as both a museum and a workshop, where visitors can explore ancient and modern craftsmanship. Workshops are also held here. We didn’t fret over missing the Center because along the road there were numerous other Mosaic shops with artisans busy creating mosaic work.

Madaba Archaeological Park II is an extension of the main Madaba Archaeological Park. The highlights here are the Martyrs’ Church , Crypt of Saint Elianus, residential structures from the early Islamic period and sections of paved Roman and Byzantine roads.

While returning we entered a few Mosaic Art Shops and gorged over the amazing mosaic work Madaba had to offer. It was getting colder and darker so we just strolled along the streets then sat for a while on the roundabout in front of our hotel and enjoyed a cup of hot Turkish coffee with the local police. Yes ,you heard it right, the local police, who turned out to be extremely nice. Not understanding each other’s language was no impediment in understanding each others inside jokes…hahaha !!!

All we needed now was a good night’s sleep for our next day’s destination – Wadi Rum !!