Mount Nebo – Journey into the land of Moses

Jordan ,including Mount Nebo, had been on my bucket list for a very, very long time . So many factors have been inspirational enough to dream about going to this beautiful country one day – but I’ll come to that shortly.

Heading out to Jordan

We had gone to Jordan at the end of December ’24 for a week ,spending the last day of the old year and first day of the new year in that beautiful country. The weather was extremely cold, making us shiver to the bones. But that was better than the extreme heat of the middle eastern climate.

We flew by the Royal Jordanian Airlines from Dubai and reached Queen Alia International Airport in Jordan on a very early morning – our intention to make most of the day. The visa on arrival process was pretty smooth , so after crossing immigration, picking up our luggage and our rental car we headed straight to Mount Nebo. We were staying at Madaba that night but decided to visit Mount Nebo first since it was on the way.

Our reasons for going to Mount Nebo and Madaba

Mount Nebo is only a half an hour drive from the airport. One can usually see Jerusalem from the top of Mount Nebo but the day was so cloudy that we didn’t expect to get any great views from the top.

Moses and Mount Nebo

Situated in western Jordan, Mount Nebo, 2,680 feet above sea level, is part of the Abarim mountain range . It is from here Moses had seen the Promised Land and spent his last days. For the unacquainted, Moses is not only considered the most important prophet, a great leader and lawgiver in the Jewish religion or Judaism but also one of the most important prophets in Christianity, Islam and other Abrahamic religions.

According to the Old Testament or Hebrew Bible, Moses had received the Ten Commandments from God. The story of Moses is one of the most important narratives in the Bible, particularly in the Book of Exodus, though his life is also mentioned in Leviticus, Numbers, and Deuteronomy. But the stories described in the Book of Exodus are also extremely interesting.

The Life Story of Moses

Moses was born in Egypt during a time when the Israelites were enslaved by the Egyptian Pharaoh. To save him from the Pharaoh’s decree to kill all male Hebrew babies, his mother placed him in a basket on the river Nile, where the Pharaoh’s daughter later found him and adopted him.

As an adult, Moses fled Egypt after killing an Egyptian who was mistreating a Hebrew. In the desert, God appeared to Moses in a burning bush and told him to return to Egypt to free the Israelites. Moses went back with his brother Aaron and demanded that the Pharaoh let the Israelites go. The Pharaoh refused, so God sent ten plagues on Egypt, culminating in the death of Egypt’s firstborn sons.

Finally, the Pharaoh, most probably Rameses II , agreed to let them go. Moses led the Israelites out of Egypt, parting the Red Sea -another place we would visit soon- so they could escape Pharaoh’s pursuing army. They wandered in the wilderness for forty years, during which Moses received the Ten Commandments from God on Mount Sinai– now in modern day Egypt.

Before entering the Promised Land, Moses was shown it from Mount Nebo but was not allowed to enter it. He died at the age of 120, and his disciple Joshua succeeded him as the leader of the Israelites.

The significance of Mount Nebo in the Bible

Mount Nebo plays a very significant role in the Old Testament. Not only did Moses see the Promised Land from here and spend his last days but also it is believed that his body is buried somewhere nearby in the Moab region. It is again believed that the Ark Of the Covenant, a sacred chest built by the Israelites, which held the stone tablets of the Ten Commandments given to Moses by God, are buried within Mount Nebo.

More than the religious, the rich historical significance was of course a great attraction for us .

On a clear day visitors can see The Dead Sea, the Jordan River valley, Jericho, Bethlehem and the distant hills of Jerusalem from Mount Nebo.

Architectural history of Mount Nebo

There is always conjecture as to how the church commemorating Moses on Mount Nebo survived so many centuries. To understand that a little history comes into discussion.

Early Christian Period (4th–6th Century AD)–

The first known structure on Mount Nebo was a small church built in the late 4th century AD by early Christian monks. This church was constructed to commemorate Moses. By the 6th century, the church was expanded into a basilica with three aisles, side chapels, and an intricate mosaic floor. The mosaics, particularly the ones discovered in the baptistery, depict hunting and pastoral scenes and are among the best-preserved in Jordan.

Byzantine Monastery (6th–7th Century AD) –

During the Byzantine era, the basilica became part of a larger monastic complex, which included living quarters for monks. Additional mosaic floors were added, showcasing elaborate geometric patterns, plants, and animals. The site remained an important pilgrimage destination.

Abandonment and Medieval Period (7th to 16th century AD)

Following the Muslim conquests starting from the Rashidun Caliphate in the 7th century, to the Umayyad Caliphate, the Abbasid Caliphate, the Crusader Period , the Ayyubid Period ,the Mamluk Period through centuries and ending with the Ottoman Conquest in the 16th century, the Monastery declined, and the site was eventually abandoned. Some of the structures deteriorated, but the ruins remained visible.

CONTINUED BELOW………

Franciscan Restoration (20th–21st Century)–

In the 1930s, the Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land began excavations and restoration work. A modern church was built over the remains of the old basilica to protect the mosaics and provide a worship space. In 2000, Pope John Paul II visited Mount Nebo and planted an olive tree as a symbol of peace. The Memorial Church of Moses, a modern reconstruction, was officially opened in 2016 to accommodate pilgrims.

Key Architectural Features Today-what visitors go to see at Mount Nebo

• Mosaics: Some of the finest Byzantine mosaics in Jordan, depicting hunting scenes, animals, and daily life.
• The Brazen Serpent Monument: A modern sculpture by Giovanni Fantoni, representing Moses’ bronze serpent and symbolizing the cross of Christ.
• Viewing Platform: Offers panoramic views of the Jordan Valley and, on a clear day, Jerusalem and the Dead Sea.

Modern day Basilica

Situated on a elevated ridge is the entrance to the active Moses Memorial, which is a Fransiscan Church dedicated to the memory of Moses. The grounds are simply beautiful, surrounded by cypress trees and overlooking the valley below. After entering the site you are greeted by ‘The Book of Love among Nations Monument’, a sculpture by Vicenzo Bianchi, dedicated to Pope John Paul II after he had visited Mount Nebo in the year 2000.

On the right side, before reaching the viewing platform you see another statue –the Rolling Stone of Abu Budd. Didn’t find much information on Google about this particular sculpture.

The bronze sculpture of The Brazen Serpent is visible on reaching the viewing point. Apart from the mosaics inside the church this is what I liked best at Mount Nebo. As mentioned before ,The Brazen Serpent is a  a large bronze serpent cross symbolizing the legendary bronze serpent created by Moses in the desert as well as the cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified. The viewing platform is strategically positioned so that visitors can get a sweeping view of the valley below as well as take photos with the bronze sculpture.

The Mosaics at Mount Nebo

It was very pleasant and modern inside the Memorial Church. Lined with mosaics and columns on all sides ,it was a delight to examine the exquisite, well-preserved mosaic works. These mosaics were part of the original basilica and monastery complex and depict a rich array of geometric patterns, hunting scenes, pastoral life, and biblical symbolism.

The oldest, highly detailed, most well-preserved and most famous mosaic is The Baptistery Mosaic. It is located in the southern side of the baptistery and features a large hunting and herding scene showing wild animals like lions, tigers, and gazelles being pursued by hunters on horseback, domesticated animals and pastoral life showing shepherds tending to sheep, camels, and other livestock; and exotic animals like giraffes, zebras, and ostriches, possibly reflecting trade and cultural exchanges between the Middle East and Africa.

On the northern side of the baptistery is a mosaic- the Diakonikon Baptistery Mosaic which is more abstract and geometric in style featuring interlocking circles, vines, and floral motifs, symbolizing eternal life and paradise. They are less figurative than the earlier mosaics but still visually stunning.

The central part of the church has a large geometric-patterned mosaic floor. This Church Nave Mosaic is a blend of geometric and figural designs. Some fragments suggest depictions of fish and birds, which were common Christian symbols.

The altar was comparatively bare with tiny stained glass windows at the back . Miniscule idols of babyJesus and Mary were placed in the middle along with a bright Christmas tree on one side. Quite plain compared to the stunning mosaics surrounding it.

The Mount Nebo Museum

Just adjacent to the Church is the Mount Nebo Interpretation Center or Museum, a compact yet significant museum that offers insights into the historical and religious importance of Mount Nebo. Here’s what you can expect to find inside:​ more exhibits, artifacts, ceramics , pottery and ancient mosaics related to the history of the region-an extension of what we had seen inside the church.

Then there on display were two Roman milestones from the ancient road connecting Heshbon to Livias, providing a glimpse into the region’s Roman history. ​The best and modern additions were the small ,illustrative models and informative panels that help contextualize the artifacts and the site’s significance. ​

Though we had to witness everything under a cloudy sky, the Mount Nebo experience turned out to be very enriching. As I stood atop Mount Nebo, gazing out over the timeless Jordan Valley imagining myself as being part of a history when Moses had treaded this place, the gloominess seemed to disappear and was replaced by an urge to delve deeper into this marvelous country.

Next we ventured out to explore Madaba.. You can read it here,